NEWGEN Designer Review: Molly Goddard

London Fashion Week Fall 2016 NEWGEN Designer Review: Molly Goddard

The Soho Car Park has opened its automatic barriers once again to the wheels of the capital as we waved another reluctant goodbye to the glitz and glamour, the weird and wonderful, the late nights and early mornings of London Fashion Week Fall 2016. With the blisters from the platforms your mother warned you not to buy (why is she always so right?!) healed and the little devils moved to the back of your wardrobe, it seems there is only one thing left to do: start thinking about the next season.

One designer to get particularly excited about is West Londoner Molly Goddard. Her techniques in smocking, crochet and pleating have already reached the pages of Elle, Vogue and Dazed and Confused since her Knitwear BA in Central St Martins. Most recently, Goddard received the support from the British Fashion Council (BFC) after winning their NEWGEN award – the talent identification scheme that supports designers by offering business advice, financial support and the opportunity to display their work in the BFC showspace.

For Goddard’s Fall collection, it was the ghost of dresses presented, each one hanging from the torso like candyfloss cocooning a stick at the fair. The garments played peek a boo with the colours worn underneath as the models held hands, giggled at the side of a piano and skipped up and down steps in the playroom created for them. Tulle was tied with statement bows, necklines were high and netted must-see trousers fell over the ankles and onto black pointed ballet slippers.

Their once tight curls were caught under lopsided bonnets and in neglected ponytails that hung at their necks. It’s as if each girl, their faces white with dust, had been brought to life. As if they were invited down from a forgotten shelf or a box in the attic marked ‘Molly’s Toys’ for a chance to be played with, loved, one last time.

The manipulation of nostalgia, the fairytale playground, smock dresses and tumbled down chairs are just another insight into the playful mind of this designer. From sandwich-making production lines to life drawing classes, whatever she treats us to next will be an absolute pleasure.

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